Ferry Plaza Farmers Market Turns 20

The Center for Urban Education and Sustainable Agriculture, aka CUESA is celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Ferry Plaza farmers market. It's one of the best farmers market in America, and for good reason. In addition to being a showcase for some of the finest local produce, it's also been a model for building community and reestablishing the urban connection to farms. 

Thanks to CUESA and the Ferry Plaza farmers market, the farmers market movement as whole has grown, with somewhere around 20 markets in San Francisco alone. Beyond helping to grow the farmer's market movement CUESA has supported chefs, created educational programs, and regularly holds events that engage the public in a variety of ways.

The Ferry Plaza farmers market is a showcase for gorgeous produce, but in some ways the very success of the market has chased me away. While I have friends who still shop there religiously, I've grown tired of the hustle and bustle of tourists and chefs, and when the bus stop was removed from in front of the market, I pretty much stopped shopping there on Saturdays.

Thankfully the market is much less crazy during the week. If I'm downtown, I will swing by on a Tuesday or Thursday to pick up a few items. like these amazing strawberries from Dirty Girl Produce. They taste better than just about any other strawberries I've ever had. 

Whether you shop there frequently or not, I hope you'll consider supporting CUESA and attending one or more of the upcoming celebratory events. 

• Birthday Party: Cocktails of the Farmers Market, this is the signature seasonal cocktail events featuring top mixologists and chefs. Inspired by the seasonal bounty of the market they create tasty bites and top-notch cocktails. Wednesday May, 15, 5:30 pm – 8 pm

• Birthday Bash! Extravagant Shortcakes and Outrageous Mimosa & Juice Bar, Farmers Market Treasure Hunt, Presentation with Local Luminaries (11 am).  Saturday, May 18, 2013 – 9 am to 1 pm

• Summer Celebration a lavish walk-around tasting reception in the Ferry Building Marketplace. Sunday, July 14, 6 pm - 9 pm

• Sunday Supper a whole-beast, four course feast prepared by San Francisco’s best chefs in the elegant Ferry Building Grand Hall. Sunday, October 20, 6 pm-10 pm

Read more about the history of the market: 

Ferry Plaza Market cultivates revolution by Tara Duggan

Starting a farmers' market by Patricia Unterman

Grocery Outlet Wine Bargains

Robaire showing off one his wine picks at Grocery Outlet in Berkeley

I've been buying wine at Grocery Outlet for a long time and I've always been curious about Robaire, the manager in the store who picks the wine. At Grocery Outlet you won't find a lot of "shelf talkers" or ratings and descriptions of the wines, but sometimes you will see "Robaire recommends" at the Berkeley store or a sheet with details on the wine that Robaire has printed out.

When Robaire took over the wine department at the store he was a cognac and scotch drinker. He told me he thought a lot wine was "just hideous." But he started reading about it and tasting and over the course of about six months, he became something of a wine lover. Today he recommends wines he thinks his customers will enjoy and not just the ones he prefers. Likewise Andy, the wine buyer at Grocery Outlet says he never buys for his palate.

The wines at Grocery Outlet all have stories. Not just the story of how they came to be, but also, how they came to end up at Grocery Outlet. Grocery Outlet choses wine based on value. According to the Andy, up to 40% are purchased below cost. How can they do that? I'd say it's because the wine business is very complicated and risky. The slightest little changes can mean a producer ends up with wine they cannot sell. Here are just some of the reasons why:

Uh oh...

Please, don't let your children design your wine label

The label was really awful. The bottle changed.  Stores or restaurants want to carry only a newer vintage. It's a brand created for a restaurant. Ownership of the winery changed. A newer vintage got high ratings or reviews. There is no space to store it.

The thrill is finding something really special, that is just too good for the price.

Right now Grocery Outlet has a sale on wine, and everything is additional 20% off through May 12, 2013.  So I talked to both Andy and Robaire to get some of their top picks:



Pope Valley Merlot
2008 Napa Valley
$11.99
This wine has the scent of red fruit with spice and violets, it's earthy and has velvety tannins. It generally sells for over twice the price.






Wild Oak by St Francis Winery Syrah

Sonoma 2007
$10.99
The Syrah is a Rhone style, with blueberry and black fruit and a hint of violet, it typically sells for $30 or more.




Swanson Instant Napa Cabernet Sauvignon
2009 Rutherford
$24.99
Swanson is very well respected for their Merlot, and you'd be hard pressed to find a Napa Cab of this quality, this reasonably priced. It's a blend of Cab, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and it includes fruit from Rutherford, near the Mayacamas range in Yountville, Oakville and Oak Knoll.  


Three Rivers Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Washington
$9.99
From Walla Walla Washington, this sells for over twice the price, and got 89 points from Wine Spectator it's a big "chewy" Cab with cherry, vanilla, blackberry and earthier notes of tobacco.

Wilson Daniels Chardonnay
2010 California
$4.99
Known mostly as a negociant, they also bottle some wines under their own label. It sells for about $14
and is from Paso Robles, it's lemony, with melon and tangerine.





Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva magnum
2008 Italy
$22.95
A favorite among chianti lovers and (Wine Spectator), this needs decanting but would be great for a party. Check out this review.




Michel Schlumberger Merlot 
California 2011
$6.99
I haven't tried this wine yet, and plan on holding on to it for a bit. This winery is known for particularly elegant wines and
Schlumberger Merlot generally sells for $35 a bottle.





Disclaimer: My thanks to Grocery Outlet for providing me with a gift card so I could buy some wines, they did not pay for me to write this or any other post. I've been a fan of Grocery Outlet for a long, long time and was paid to create some recipes for them in the Fall of 2012. 

Mango Mustard Chicken Recipe

Recently I was at a dinner hosted by Maille, an award-winning brand of Dijon style mustard that's been around for 265 years. Mustard was used in everything from cocktails to dessert. Mustard adds complexity and brightness and can be used in the background or front and center, it all depends on the dish. It also seems to balance out sweetness, adding pungency and acidity.

As luck would have it, the National Mango Board sent me a box of luscious mangoes and I was instantly inspired. Mangos and mustard! I'm happy to say this recipe for Mango Mustard Chicken was a smashing success from the very first try. The sauce of mango, sautéed onion, mustard and honey is tangy, sweet, spicy and so good you won't be able to stop eating it! The pungency of the mustard is tempered by the sweetness of the mango and honey. I bet it would be good on a roast pork loin as well.

A few years ago I learned not all Dijon style mustards are the same, some are sharper and some emulsify better than others. I highly recommend you use an imported French variety, such as Maille, because they work best in recipes. Read about my friend Sarah's trip to the Maille shop in Paris then try my recipe.

Note: Different mangos are available throughout the year. To learn about the different varieties, visit www.mango.org.


Mango Mustard Chicken Recipe

Ingredients

1 Tablespoon oil
1 chicken cut into 8 pieces (do not use the wings)
1 medium onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tablespoons honey
1/4 cup Dijon style mustard, preferably Maille or imported French
1 mango, diced, a firm mango works well such as a Haden or Tommy Atkins

Instructions

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Heat a large skillet, add oil to coat the pan and brown the chicken on all sides.  Transfer the chicken to an oven safe baking dish.

Add onion and garlic to the skillet and sauté until transparent. Turn off the heat, then add honey, mustard and mango and stir until combined.

Pour the mango mustard sauce over the chicken pieces. Bake for about 30 minutes or until internal temperature reaches 170 degrees. Transfer pan drippings to a skillet and simmer until reduced, or serve as is.

Enjoy!

A Taste of Bermuda

Bermuda is pretty pink beaches, dazzling turquoise water, lush vegetation, touches of British style, pastel painted homes and truly friendly people. It’s posh yet casual and while not a bona fide culinary destination, it offers some delicious things to eat and drink that you won’t find elsewhere.
Here are my top picks:

Fish chowder
This scrumptious soup, considered the national dish, was originally poor people’s food, made from fish bones. It’s a rich broth, with vegetables including onions, tomatoes, celery, carrots and a variety of spices and herbs. It's a little bit like Manhattan style chowder but with bits of fish instead of clams, but what makes it most special is the black rum and sherry pepper sauce that’s added to it, often at the table.

Where to find it: I loved it everywhere I had it, and it’s on just about every menu, but I’m told, the best version is sold at the Rubis gas station near the airport (get your taxi driver to take you!). I tried it at Bonefish, Henry VII and Wahoo’s Bistro.

Fresh fish
Grouper has a tender texture and a sweet flavor, similar to sea bass. It’s often served in Bermuda with sautéed bananas. The combination of sweet and savory is very popular on the island. Wahoo is another local fish, but if even slightly overcooked, it can be terribly dry.

Where to find it: I enjoyed tastes of grouper at both Muse and Swizzle Inn, where it was expertly prepared.

Rum cake
Rich buttery cakes doused in rum are popular in Bermuda, as they are in the Caribbean. The best are airy, light, boozy and just a touch moist in the center.

Where to find it: While I had samples at many shops, the best I had was at the luxurious Fairmont Southampton.

Pepper jelly
I never understood the appeal of pepper jelly until I had it in Bermuda. Wow! This spicy sweet jam with chunks of pepper was the perfect foil for a fresh scone slathered with clotted cream. But it’s also great on toast with butter. There are lots of different varieties and brands, some hotter and others sweeter.

Where to find it: The best price I found for it was at the supermarket in Hamilton but you’ll find it at gift shops and in the duty free stores at the airport.

Bailey’s Ice Cream
DJ Donovan, one of the charming taxi drivers and guides on Bermuda told me the best ice cream on the island is at Bailey’s, and I believe it. The rum raisin is made with the Gosling's Black Seal Rum of course.

Where to find it: Bailey's is across the street from the Swizzle Inn, At Wilkinson Ave and Blue Hole Hill (in Bailey's Bay), Hamilton Parish

Gosling's
Gosling’s is the oldest business in Bermuda and makes Bermuda’s only rum. The sugar cane is not grown on Bermuda, and it’s not distilled there either. But the proprietary blend of distillates from Jamaica, Barbados and Trinidad is blended there and it’s distinctive spicy flavor is the key ingredient in the Dark and Stormy and the Rum Swizzle, both of which you should try while on the island.

The Dark ‘N Stormy, Gosling's trademarked cocktail, is made from Gosling's Black Seal Rum and ginger beer over ice. The recipe for the Rum Swizzle varies, but it often consists of Gosling's Black Seal Rum, and a combination of lime, and orange and pineapple juice and a sweetener such as falernum or grenadine. If you want to try their most premium rum, look for the family reserve.

While you can find Gosling's Black Seal Rum off the island, what you can’t find is Bermuda Gold, a brand owned by Gosling's. It’s a sweet loquat liquor made on the island. It’s fruity and slightly reminiscent of amaretto. It’s great over ice, with orange juice of sparkling wine. It's also perfect over vanilla ice cream.

Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum is in limited supply and very expensive off the island. A must for rum connoisseurs, this award-winning rum is rich and mellow with spice and fruit.

Where to find it: You can get the cocktails anywhere, buy Bermuda Gold liqueur or the Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum at the airport in the duty free section, at the gate. The prices there are the best you'll find.

Disclaimer: I was a guest of Bermuda Tourism, However I was not paid for this, or any other post and I paid for some food and drink that is featured in this post. 

Mexican Cooking Class with Ruth Alegria

It's hard to spend time with Ruth Alegria, and not want to jump on the next plane to Mexico City. To say she knows Mexican food would be an understatement. Ruth has lived in Mexico City for almost 10 years and before that studied the cuisine with luminaries including Diana Kennedy and Enrique Olvera. She also opened the first Mexican restaurant in Princeton, N.J., in 1980 and received two stars from the New York Times.

Her culinary tours and cooking classes at Mexico Soul and Essence are not just beloved by her students, but were singled out by Saveur magazine as among the best in all of Mexico. But it's not just the recipes, it's the techniques and insights into shopping, ingredients and the history and culture that make her such a wonderful teacher and guide.

This past Sunday at the lovely Tamarindo Antojeria restaurant in Oakland, proprietor Gloria Dominguez hosted a cooking class with Ruth. We made salsas, agua fresca, a creamy poblano soup, an ensalada with nopales and another with grilled spring onions, cochinita pibil and pollo pibil, fish wrapped in hoja santa and more. I learned so much, it's hard to know where to start! But here are a few tidbits:

* Seek out Mexican oregano, it is much different than the Mediterranean variety, and very fragrant (a bit sweeter I'd say).

* Toast herbs on a comal, in addition to spices and vegetables. A cast iron comal is probably better than non-stick.

* Cook your salsas, if you want them to last longer in the fridge.

* Add chia seeds to agua fresca.

* Cut chayotes in half, then boil them just until a knife will pierce them, not till they are soft!

* If dried chiles are brittle, do not buy them. They should bend, not break.

* After grilling poblano peppers, put them in a paper bag, not a plastic bag, before scrapping off the peel otherwise they will continue to cook.

* Use only Mexican Jamaica flowers in vegetarian dishes, not the Sudanese variety which turns pink after steeping to make agua fresca.

I am looking forward to trying some Ruth's recipes, especially for salsas, and Gloria's recipe for Capirotada, a Mexican style bread pudding (with no eggs!).

Ruth is spending time in the San Francisco Bay Area, to take a class with her or to find out more about her tours and classes in Mexico, visit her Facebook page.

Vegetable Cookbooks

Is this the year of the vegetable? It sure seems like it! Vegetable centric cookbook are in the spotlight, and it's not one size fits all. There are cookbooks about foraging, using roots, healthy eating and more. In honor of Meatless Monday, here's a round up of some interesting ones I've come across lately.

The Duke's Table is a vegetarian book of Italian food, written in 1930 and now available in English. I learned to love vegetables in Italy where they are never, ever served plain. They are always "dressed" and I find this makes all the difference. Even a little drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice make a dish of vegetables more appealing. This book has a staggering number of recipes, over 1000 and everything from pasta dishes to souffles, egg dishes, soups, ice creams and even some raw dishes (those are a little out there!). Some of the recipes are healthy, some are not, but all are interesting and offer a peek into a fascinating diet of a man of means at the turn of the century (the duke lived from 1879 till 1946). Some of the recipes are fancy, but many are regional dishes like Bucellati, a sweet bread or Torta Napoletana. The vegetarian meatballs and meatloaves are inventive mixtures of mushrooms and walnuts. 

My verdict? A fascinating book for Italian food lovers. 

I am very excited about Tara Duggan's book Root-to-Stalk Cooking because I am the kind of cook who wonders, can I eat carrot tops? What can I do with squash blossoms other than stuff them? And is there a good use for apple peelings? Fortunately this book answers all those nagging questions and more. It's all about using the whole vegetable and that just makes good sense.

Recipes I've bookmarked include Chard Stalk Relish with Pine Nuts & Sultanas, Pea Pod Pudding, Carrot Top Salsa Verde with Roasted Root Vegetables and Apple Peel Bourbon. Note this book won't be available until August. 

My verdict? Great for adventuresome and thrifty cooks, farmer's market shoppers and gardeners who often end up with whole, untrimmed vegetables. 

Vegetable Literacy is the latest book from Deborah Madison and the closest thing to a vegetable bible both for cooking and gardening. It's organized by families, such as nightshades, lily, grass, cabbage and sunflower. It really makes you think about vegetables in a new way!

There are recipes for vegetables you use all the time like carrots and squash but also recipes using less common vegetables like burdock, quelites, parsnips and escarole. I have so many recipes bookmarked I don't know where to start, but a few that caught me eye are Young Leeks with Oranges and Pistachios, Corn Simmered in Coconut Milk with Thai Basil and Sweet Potatoes with White Miso Ginger Sauce. I am in awe of Deborah Madison. She's like a national treasure and though no longer living in the Bay Area, she was deeply involved in the restaurants that made a big impact in our local cuisine specifically Chez Panisse and Greens. 

My verdict? Buy this book! It is destined to become a classic. 

Ripe is written by Cheryl Sternman Rule with stunning photography by Paulette Phlipot. It came out last year but is still making waves! Organized by color, it really does embody passion and excitement. It's written in a slightly cheeky style that's fun to read and each ingredient gets a set of tips for using them and how to combine them with other ingredients.

There are lots of surprises in this book like Swiss Chard stuffed with Polenta (smart!) a juicy salad of Honeydew, Cucumber and Grapes with a poppyseed and lime dressing and show stopping Persimmon, Apple, Radicchio stacks (you can't tell me you've seen that elsewhere). 

My verdict? Inspiring recipes, ideas and photos, and a great coffee table book. 

The Longevity Kitchen by Rebecca Katz and Mat Edelson focuses on 16 "age busting" foods, they are asparagus, avocado, basil, blueberries, coffee, dark chocolate, garlic, green tea, kale, olive oil, pomegranate, sweet potatoes, thyme, walnuts, wild salmon and yogurt. Let's face it, you are going to get old, no matter what you eat. But the ingredients in this book may help you live a more healthy life.

The photos are good and the book is really jam packed with inspiring recipes for things you probably haven't considered like Nori Rolls stuffed with Avocado and Smoked Salmon, Edamame Wasabi Spread and sardines mixed with loads of herbs and mustard. Many of the recipes, including all of the baked good and desserts are gluten-free, often relying on almond flour. Also Rebecca Katz writes wonderfully informal headnotes with each recipe.

My verdict? Great for anyone wanting to incorporate more healthy foods into their cooking and looking for new ideas.

Backyard Foraging. Yay! Another book on foraging! And this one is not about going far into the wild, but simply into your own backyard. Full color photographs and a guide to seasonality will be helpful to those just starting to forage for food. Did you know you could eat magnolia flowers and buds? I didn't! Watch out foliage, this book is coming after you! 

There are instructions for how to prepare the foraged food, but only a few recipes at the end of the book, for things like Dandelion Wine, Dahlia Tuber Bread, Mushroom Ravioli and Rose Hip Soup. 

My verdict? Great for budding naturalists living in the suburbs or less urban areas with access to common plants. I fear urban plants growing wild are probably exposed to more pollution and not as suitable for eating, though perhaps I'm wrong about that.

The Passionate Vegetable is a weird name for a cookbook. I mean, what exactly is a passionate vegetable? Written by a health educator, Suzanne Landry the book provides a roadmap for better health through the "flexitarian" style of eating. Perhaps most importantly the recipes are easy to follow.

To be honest, though I do want to try The Passionate Breakfast Cookie, much of the photography is not terribly inspiring in this book and the recipes remind me of the things I cooked when I moved into my first apartment--Mushroom Barley Soup, Black Bean and Corn Salad, Ratatouille over Spaghetti Squash. 

My verdict? This book is best for beginning cooks. 

Disclaimer: Some of these books were review copies, and this post includes affiliate links. 

Rice Paper Salad Rolls Recipe

Rice paper salad rolls are basically salads wrapped in rice paper. You probably already have plenty of salad ingredients in your fridge, but what about Vietnamese rice paper?  It's one of those pantry ingredients I've sometimes bought and used once, and then forgot about. And that's kind of a shame because it has a lot going for it. It's cheap, keeps forever and is easy to use.

Rice paper is traditionally used to make Vietnamese "Summer rolls" but like tortillas, it's extremely versatile and shouldn't be limited to only Vietnamese cuisine. Use it as a wrapper for pretty much whatever you like and you've got a great appetizer, snack or meal. While tortillas are served warm, rice paper rolls are served at room temperature.

I believe eating outdoors is more fun than eating inside, and that eating with your fingers makes everything taste better. So that makes rice paper salad rolls perfect for picnics (or take from home lunches). I have used all kinds of different fillings and this is a combination I really like, but experiment! Try sprouts, shredded chicken, smoked salmon, enoki mushrooms--the possibilities are endless. 

Rice Paper Salad Rolls

Makes 2 rolls

Ingredients

4 sheets rice paper

1 English cucumber, peeled

1 small carrot 

1 daikon radish
Avocado 

1 piece marinated or baked tofu, (or use homemade gluten free baked tofu)

4 lettuce leaves

Peanut sauce 

Instructions

Prepare the vegetables by peeling long lengthwise strips of each the cucumber, daikon radish and carrot using a vegetable peeler. The number of slices will vary depending upon the size of the rice paper you have. Then slice each strip into long skinny slivers. Cut the tofu and avocado into thin strips. 

Fill a bowl with warm water. Dip two rice paper sheets into the water, making sure the water flows between the sheets. Let the water drip off the rice paper, and then lay it on a flat surface. You want the sheets to be just softened enough so you can roll them. 

Lay one lettuce leaf on the double layer of rice paper. Top with thin strips of vegetables and tofu, but don't overstuff. Roll up like a burrito, either tucking the ends in or leaving them open. Serve with peanut sauce

Enjoy!