Thursday, January 2, 2014

More Vegetable Cookbooks

So many wonderful vegetable and vegetarian cookbooks have come out recently, it’s hard to keep track of all of them. I wrote about many of my favorite vegetable cookbooks in April, here are some more perfect for starting the new year. Note: a couple of these are not strictly vegetarian, but have so many great vegetable recipes I included them anyway. 

For a food writer and editor to go vegetarian, means some really serious work had to happen, adapting and creating new bold recipes. That’s exactly what Joe Yonan has done in his latest book, Eat Your Vegetables. It’s the second in a series for the single cook/diner. But if you are not single, don’t let that deter you. First of all there are times when all of us are dining alone, and most of the recipes are easy to multiply or adapt for larger groups. This is vegetarian food for someone who knows how meat tastes, if that makes any sense. Curried Mushroom Bean Burgers, Pomegranate-Glazed Eggplant, Spaghetti with Root-to-Leaf Radish. Good stuff! 

River Cottage Veg is the latest in a series of River Cottage cookbooks on single subjects, everything from fish to preserves to bread. The book has some classics like Eggplant Parmigiana and Poached Egg on Toast, but also very fresh vegetarian recipes, like Warm Salad of Mushrooms and Roasted Squash, Beet and Walnut Hummus, Tahini-dressed Zucchini and Green Bean Salad, Green Onion Galette and Kohlrahbi “carpaccio.” It’s simple but very appealing and approachable vegetarian food for vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike. 

Le Pain Quotidien is a book that seems to have remained under the radar. I didn’t see it on one “best of” list this year. But with 200 bakery/cafe locations around the world, you know they are doing something right. And they are. Le Pain Quotidien makes delicious, mostly organic, and often healthy food including lots of open face “tartine” sandwiches, soups and salads, breads and more.  The cookbook is an extension of the brand, in the best possible way. There are some very unexpected but enticing recipes like Mocha & Caper Butter with Crostini, Pea, Pancetta & Radish Tartine, Soba, Cauliflower & Blood Orange Salad and Pearl Barley Paella. The photography is beautiful and the recipes are all really straight forward and easy to do. You can create lovely little picture perfect snacks with this book. 

The New Persian Kitchen isn’t a vegetarian cookbook, but the majority of the recipes just happen to be vegetarian. They are also exotic, often healthy and very approachable, though not strictly traditional Persian. The book pleasantly surprises with new-to-me ways to prepare things like Roasted Stuffed Artichokes with Mint Oil, Radish, Rhubarb and Strawberry Salad, No-Bake Persimmon and Goat Cheese Cheesecake and Fig Mustard. I became a big fan of Louisa Shafia after reading her first book, Lucid Food and am happy to add this one to my collection. 


The Heart of the Plate is Mollie Katzen’s latest cookbook. If you loved the Moosewood Cookbook, this is a much more modern book. Though I prefer the illustrations over the somewhat boring photos in this book, the recipes themselves are bound to become classics. Her twists, like adding pomegranate to tabouli in Pomegranate Tabouli, adding to quinoa to pancakes in Tiny Quinoa-Speckled Buttermilk Cornmeal Cakes, Bulgur and Spaghetti and Kale Caesar Salad are genius! Another keeper.

Disclaimer: Some of these books were review copies, and this post includes affiliate links. 

Monday, December 23, 2013

Chestnut and Celery Root Soup Recipe


My CSA or community supported agriculture box of produce from Eatwell Farms challenges me with every delivery this season. Bok choy? Cabbage? Celery root? Sure I have a recipe or two for each of those, but week after week and I get bored and need to find something new. As much as I love celery root salad and mash I think I've discovered a recipe I like even better, Chestnut and Celery Root Soup. It would be perfect to serve on Christmas or on New Year's Eve. 

This is the epitome of a shortcut recipe with few ingredients and a reliance on a couple of convenience items namely roasted, peeled and vacuum packed chestnuts I find at Trader Joe's and canned chicken broth. I've mentioned it before, but when I don't have homemade chicken broth, I find Swanson's to be the next best thing. The prep for this soup takes more time than the cooking and it's just a matter of peeling, slicing and dicing onions, celery root and an apple pear. 

Chestnut and Celery Root Soup is really very elegant and rich despite the fact that it has no cream in it. I took my inspiration from a Daniel Boulud recipe I found on Dorie Greenspan's blog, In the Kitchen and on the Road with Dorie Greenspan. That recipe is much more of a chef recipe than mine, but trust me, mine is delicious! It has lots of depth and  a nice balance of sweetness and earthy flavors. 


Chestnut and Celery Root Soup
Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
1 Tablespoon oil
1 small onion, peeled and sliced thinly 
1 apple pear (you could use an apple or a pear if you prefer), peeled and diced
1 celery root, peeled and diced 
1 14.5 ounce can chicken broth or homemade
1/2 cup cooked and peeled chestnuts
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Nutmeg
Cream or sour cream, optional for garnish

Instructions

Heat the butter and oil in a saucepan. When the butter melts, add the onion. Cook gently for 5 minutes or until soft, then ad the pear and celery root and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth, then fill the can with water and add that as well. Simmer the soup for 10 minutes or until the celery root is very tender. 

Add the chestnuts to the soup and puree in the blender in batches until creamy. Season with salt and add a pinch of freshly ground nutmeg. Serve with a swirl of sour cream or cream and a few bits of chestnut if desired. 

Enjoy! 

Thursday, December 19, 2013

Christmas Cakes & Drink Like a Kiwi and more

My latest stories on Recipe.com and 7x7.com
The America's Cup is over, but our love affair with New Zealand is far from finished.

Stuart Brioza chef owner of State Bird Provisions, which won the James Beard award for Best New Restaurant, was a presenter at the CIA Worlds of Flavor conference earlier this month. We sat down to talk to him about one of the themes of the conference, creativity. 

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Cool Gifts for Cooks 2013

Here are my picks for things that cooks will find particularly useful:


AnySharp bills itself at the world's best knife sharpener. I'd say it has the world's best knife sharpening video ever. I can't say if it's the best, but it is definitely the smallest, most convenient and easy to use sharpener. It uses a powerful suction cup to keep it in place and lets you sharpen serrated knives as well as scissors. The Pro model is $26.97 on Amazon


I have gone through more kitchen shears than I can count. They just don't seem to hold up very well. But so far I am having great success with the Smart Sizzors (from the makers of the AnySharp) They have lots of nifty features that allow you to open bottles, crack nuts or even crush garlic. Mainly I like the feel of them and how well they work on poultry. $20 on Amazon
Once you become a customer of Thermoworks, you may find you want a little bit of everything in their product line. I have been using and abusing the Thermapen for months and it is a trooper. It's my favorite instant read thermometer of all times. It is splash proof, shuts off automatically and easy to use and clean. Expensive, but awesome. $96.

Another item I got a chance to test from Thermoworks is the ChefAlarm with high temp cooking probe. This does not have a remote, like the older model I had from another manufacturer, but it is much better quality and has a loud alarm when it reaches temperature. It also has a second probe for sous vide if you need that. It's designed for commercial kitchens. $59.00


ProCook cast iron cookware. I wrote about this earlier in the year and for anyone who wants to invest in a piece, the prices are simply unbeatable and the styling very attractive. I use my cast iron cookware for sautéing, braising, frying, baking, roasting--you name it. I always leave a piece on the stove because I use it so often. I love that you can use it on the stove or in the oven. It's also great for serving because it holds the heat so well. You can buy a set or just one piece. Right now an 8 inch 3.1 inch round casserole is $50 and there's a additional 20% off coupon if you use the code Extra20 and free shipping! You simply won't find cast iron cookware at a better price than that. $40 with discount

Berry Breeze is a very practical gift. Instead of placing a box of baking soda in your refrigerator, the Berry Breeze uses activated oxygen to help keep food fresher much longer. It's battery operated and takes up very little space. I definitely have noticed a difference since I started using it. Produce stays fresher longer and there is no odor. $49.95 




Last but not least, in the practical but also fun category, check out these great SealedWithaCase iPhone cases available on Etsy that are not only very real looking, but brilliantly mirror the shape of real-life items including sushi, chocolates, matzah, pop-tart and a TV dinner. I'm torn between the ice cream sandwich and the tin of sardines! $17.99 each




Disclaimer: I received some of these items as review samples. I was not paid to write this or any other post, however this post does include some affiliate links. 

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Eggnog Product Taste Test

The last time I made eggnog was in college. It was a recipe from one of the first cookbooks I ever owned, the Joy of Cooking, and it involved whipped egg whites and heavy cream, lots of sugar and brandy. It was voluminous, fluffy and delicious but a fair amount of work and it served an army. 

When the holidays roll around, I'm always tempted, but often disappointed by the eggnog available at the supermarket. This year I was sent a sample of eggnog from Organic Valley and was surprised by how good it was. It wasn't fluffy, but it was rich and creamy and it didn't have any strange flavors or weird texture. I wanted to see if other eggnogs were equally as good. Thanks to a connection at Whole Foods, the next thing I knew a handful of local food writers and bloggers were sitting around a table tasting eggnogs and also some desserts, cheeses (Uniekaas truffled gouda, oh la la!) a delectable baked spiral sliced Wellshire ham and wine for good measure (more about that later). 

Here are the results:

Califia Farms Holiday Nog (Almond milk): $3.99/48 oz
This is apparently a very popular eggnog this year, but our tasters didn't think much of it. It was a little bland and the texture was odd. Perhaps vegans like it? 

So Delicious Dairy-Free Nog (coconut milk): $2.99/quart, Non-GMO Project Verified
This was the most surprising eggnog, because none of us expected it to be very good. And yet all of us liked it! It was rich, had nice spice flavor and no artificial notes. BEST NON-DAIRY

Clover Stornetta Egg Nog: $3.99/quart or $6.49/half gallon
This was way too sweet. Not recommended. 

Organic Valley Eggnog: on sale at Whole Foods ‘til 1/1 for $3.99/quart (regular $4.99/quart). Organic.
Hand's down, the favorite among all the tasters. Really rich, the freshest and cleanest tasting of all the eggnogs and reasonably priced, especially considering the quality. It had a homemade taste and just the right notes of vanilla and nutmeg. WINNER

Traderspoint Creamery Eggnog: $7.49/quart. Organic, grassfed
We hoped this would be something special, but the spicing was too heavy and the texture not very creamy. 

Straus Family Creamery: $6.49/quart, Organic, Non-GMO Project Verified
A solid though pricey choice, it just wasn't nearly as good as the Organic Valley nog. 
RUNNER UP 

A big thank you to Whole Foods for hosting our little tasting party, Organic Valley for sending me a sample, and to my pals on the tasting panel. 

More? 
Check out Sean's review and Molly's review

Monday, December 9, 2013

Americana Culinary Roots

Most cookbooks focus on what's new, but not all of them. And there are definitely some advantages to looking back. These books are all about American cooking, but each takes a closer look at our culinary history and regional differences. 

Inside the California Food Revolution is an amazing book that details the "thirty years that changed our culinary consciousness." It WAS a revolution that took place in California, but truly the effects were felt all across the country. Joyce Goldstein was there, a successful restaurateur and chef as well as food writer and so her connections and knowledge of the time make this book really stand out. She tells the stories of the people who shaped what and how we eat in the crucial era from 1970 until 2000. Her admiration for the pioneers of the time comes through and her engaging style make this a must read. No recipes are in the book, but a number of menus that help document the time. 
A Century of Restaurants is another definite "keeper" because it combines food, history and travel. It must have been a very enjoyable book to research and write, because it catalogues stories and recipes from one hundred of America's most historic and successful restaurants. It's just good fun to look up iconic restaurants and read about them and see a recipe. For California the book includes Philippe the Original in Los Angeles, Duarte's Tavern in Pescadero. The Tadich Grill in San Francisco and Fenton's Creamery in Oakland. If you are planning a trip, it's a perfect book to reference before you go. Some of my favorite old time places are here such as Durgin Park and The Union Oyster House in Boston, Commander's Palace in New Orleans and Ferrara in New York. It's wonderfully researched and well written. 


CookingLight Lighten Up, America! Is a fun book of regional specialties, all given something of a makeover. The book has fresh favorites like Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and classics like Lobster Rolls, all with tips on how to lighten up the recipe without sacrificing flavor. The book also shares how some dishes became classics. You might be surprised to find things like Grilled Jalapeño Poppers and Pigs in a Blanket, but they are there. They've even updated Chicken Marbella from the classic Silver Palate Cookbook! I particularly like the pages on hot dogs, which show how they are regionalized from Hawaii to Chicago. The book has tons of photos, of dishes but also restaurants and cookbooks, ingredients and home cooks.

The Way We Ate calls upon one hundred chefs and food writers to share recipes they associate with a specific year or in some cases decade in American cooking, between 1900 until 2000. The connection of the recipe to the year may seem like a stretch but you can't argue with the results. You will want to try Michael White's Polenta con Ragu di Salsiccia or Ben Polinger's Raspberry-Cured Salmon with Salmon Tartare, Ginger and Meyer Lemon. I was a little dismayed at what seems like recipes only from New York based chefs and food writers. It would have been nice to have seen more contributors from beyond the 212 area code.


Not a cookbook at all, but a history book. Repast, Dining out at the Dawn of the New American Century, 1900-1910 shares menus, photographs and the stories of the day as they pertain to the history and culture of cuisine. From the tenements of Chinatown to the stately hotels and presidential dinners, it's detailed with lots of anecdotes and stories you probably haven't heard before. Learn about early tea rooms where ladies dined and the precursors to fast food restaurants. Or how wealthy magnates threw lavish dinner parties transforming dining rooms and hotel ballrooms into farm yards, goldmines and miniature Versailles gardens. It's definitely for the history buff.

Disclaimer: these books were provided to me as review copies and this post includes affiliate links.

Friday, December 6, 2013

Sweet Dreams: Movie Review



What brings joy? Dancing, drumming, ice cream? Yes, yes, yes! Sweet Dreams is the story of a group of women in Rwanda who come together first breaking barriers as drummers, and then in a cooperative where they make and sell ice cream. 

The documentary juxtaposes the personal stories of the women, who have suffered so much as widows, orphans and children of some the murderous perpetrators during the genocide in their country, with the story of their journey forward, trying to find meaning, reconciliation and joy again--all in a country where there is no ice cream. And so the Sweet Dreams are for the future, a future you can actually taste. 

It's impossible not to be moved by these women, and to admire their resilience, creative artistry, hard work and hopes for the future. Can the land of "milk and honey" find redemption? That's the real question because this is not just the story of a group of women, but the story of Rwanda. Their path is not without drama and setbacks, but ultimately it's a story of triumph and an inspiring one that will make you believe in the power of the human spirit.   At 84 minutes it's a tightly edited gripping film and every scene counts. 

Sweet Dreams has frequently been an audience favorite at film festivals. It's opens tonight in the Bay Area, though there are multiple showings, only one per theater will feature the filmmakers and stars of the film. Don't miss it! 

Opera Plaza in San Francisco (shows for one week)
  • Fri 12/6, early eve 7:00 pm show– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya with Alexis Miesen of Blue Marble Ice Cream. 
Opera Plaza
601 Van Ness
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 267-4893

  • Sat, 12/7, 1:30 pm show– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film:Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine
Clay Theater
2261 Fillmore Street
San Francisco
(415) 561-9921

Shattuck in Berkeley (shows for one week)
  • Sat, 12/7, 7:10 pm– Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film: Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine
Shattuck
2086 Allston Way
Berkeley
(510) 845-7300

  • Sun, 12/8, 7pm show – Q&A with Rob & Lisa Fruchtman and Kiki Katese, founder of Ingoma Nshya PLUS Special live drumming performance by The Ingoma Nshya drummers featured in the film: Ingabire Rose, Mujawayezu Therese, Uwintiji Clementine, Uwamariya Clementine
Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center
1118 4th Street
San Rafael
(415) 454-1222